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The perfume that lasts a long time

There is a pressing demand among perfume lovers, so much so that it now seems like the Phoenix: it is the fragrance that lasts a long time. The topic is pressing and cannot be ignored. There are those who are convinced that persistence depends on concentrations, only to be proven wrong when faced with some “Extrait” or “Eau de Parfum” that goes away after about ten minutes of wearing it. Adieux!

There are those who believe it depends on the type of skin, for which: "on my skin no perfume remains". Then maybe they are forced to regret it when they find themselves with a bad smell that they don't like and that they can't get rid of it.

Others believe it depends on the price, others on the brand, others on the color.
In reality, things are a little more complex. But let's try to understand and go slowly.

Let's start with molecules. The dimensions of molecules are extremely varied and depend on the number and nature of the component atoms: the smallest molecule is that of hydrogen, there are obviously very complex and large ones. Suppose two guys, one skinny and agile and the other a bit chubby.

Then there is – in this strange similarity between molecules and individuals – what we could define as the ability to jump, that is, there are substances characterized by a high “vapor pressure” (measured in Pascal) that are called “volatile”, others characterized by a low “vapor pressure” that remain still unless the temperature rises a little. Those who are experts in chemistry will excuse me for the approximation, but it is done to make it clear.

Well, it is clear that in front of the puny one brought for the jump (volatile substance), the chubby one arrives later. But here, let us remember, it is a race in reverse, because the desire is that the fragrance remains and not that it flies away!
Question: but if it doesn't fly away and stays attached to my skin, how does it make anyone who's even a meter away feel it?
You see, things are already getting complicated here.
Let's move on to concentrations. Is an Eau de toilette or an Extrait de Parfum better? An Extrait is better, but we need to clarify, because this parameter alone is not enough.

A perfume is given by the dilution of an oil in an alcohol. But what is the maximum concentration of oil that I can dissolve? Answer: it depends on the type of oil. Question: but only on that? No, also on the alcohol content (alcohol percentage) and on the temperature. So in addition to the molecules and their volatility, their propensity to be dissolved also comes into play.

So it all depends on the formula.

Inside the perfume there are often hundreds of components, each of which plays a fundamental role, for this reason the work of the "Nose" or better said Perfumer - is a serious thing that is learned within the companies over the years. For this reason they are very few and paid ... handsomely.

The romantic idea of ​​making perfumes in the garage by mixing, say, a vanilla base with a rose perfume, a very popular format in recent years, is like playing the little chemist, thinking you can create a vaccine or a drug that cures cancer. Oh God, there is a possibility that this will happen, but honestly it is very remote. Then there are those who believe it, but that's another story.
But let's get back to us and the complexity of formulas. Think that inside them there are substances that maybe smell very little, that you almost don't feel, but that determine the success of a perfume, they are often listed among the so-called commodities.

Going back to the example of the two guys above, I remember when I was younger and I was part of a volleyball team. I didn't know how to play, I was a bit overweight and I was a complete loser! They made me the mascot. The funny thing is that when I wasn't there the team lost and when I was there they won. At the end of the championship I hadn't scored a point but I had been absolutely indispensable. In short, I was a commodity.

Don't worry though, the perfume that lasts a long time does exist, and with a little care it never goes away. Absolutely never.

We all have it and – apart from Jean Baptiste Grenouille, a wonderful character in Suskind’s novel who didn’t have it – it has been with us since birth. To make it feel intensely there is a little trick, which we reveal in this blog. It is based on washing little, or rather with little water, no soap and a lot of haste.

I feel I must thank Professor Lucio Merlini of the University of Milan who kindly supervised what was written. I am united to him by a relationship of kinship and great affection.

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